Thursday April 21, 2011

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BEIJING – We visited the Forbidden City this morning in heavy rain. This monumental collection of parks and buildings was built in the early 15th Century as the “home” of the Emperors. It is remarkably crowded with Chinese tourists there to soak up their national heritage. Go early. We started at the North Gate at opening time (most people start at the South Gate on Tiananmen Square) and moved South through the complex, giving us a few hours of relative peace until we ran into the the throngs that started at the same time that we did, but at the South gate. This is a standard view of the North Gate from Jingshan Park which abuts the Forbidden City to the North. Taken with my Leica M9 and a 90mm lens, two frames stitched.

It rains on the Forbidden City

It rains on the Forbidden City

Here we are at the South Gate five hours later. The South Gate faces Tiananmen Square, the giant square that is the heart of official China. Tianamen Square is accessible only through subterranean passages with security checks; there are security cameras everywhere; sentries march prescribed routes through the square.

South gate  of the Forbidden City

South gate of the Forbidden City

South of Tiananmen Square is the new Qianmen Walking Street. This had been a vibrant shopping street in the 1950s. The street and the area to the East of it were recently demolished – the walking street consists of new storefronts built in traditional style. The impression is that some Disney virus infected the urban planners who put this here. To the West of it is still a dynamic area old side streets and alleys. Here’s Maria trying to get unlost. Taken with my Leica M9 and a 50mm Summicron.

School girls help Maria

School girls help Maria

On this day one year ago: fundraiser at Gustavinos.

Benefit at Gustavinos


Wednesday April 20, 2011

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SHANGHAI and BEIJING – Another travel day. The trip from Shanghai to Beijing is only two hours flying time but the disruption in the day, and the time spent in taxis and airports, is the enemy of my photo a day project. I managed a few captures in Hongqiao Airport and some images from a walk after dinner in Beijing.

This was taken with my Leica M9 and a 50mm Summilux lens:

Hongqiao Airport

Hongqiao Airport

Leica and 35mm Summilux lens. This is an apparently wealthy young Beijinger photographing his girlfriend – and assistant (who is out of sight) is holding a reflector to soften her shadows.

Beijing at night

/Beijing at night

On this day one year ago: Hello “Hello Kitty”.

Hello Kitty

Hello Kitty


Friday April 15, 2011

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NEW YORK NEW YORK – Tax day in the US and a travel day. I’m on my way to Shanghai on Continental via Toronto. Continental cancelled the Newark – Toronto leg at the last minute so I was left to scramble to make alternate arrangements. I barely made it on to a Continental direct flight to Shanghai, but my checked bag didn’t. A 15 hour flight. Not good circumstances for a daily photo. I managed a couple of snapshots in the Continental lounge before things turned ugly. With my Panasonic GH2 and a 20mm pancake lens.

Continental Lounge Newark

Continental Lounge Newark

On this day one year ago: Tulips on Park Avenue

Park Avenue


Saturday January 29, 2011

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MUSTIQUE – One last sky as we pack up to return to a snow and ice covered New York. Hasseblad H4D-60 and 28mm lens. Three frames stitched.

Grenadines morning

Grenadines morning

On this day one year ago: A lovely infrared image at Citicorp Center. Reviewing this image inspired me to dig out my infrared kit again. Expect some IR images over the next few weeks.

Lexington Avenue

Lexington Avenue


Tuesday January 25, 2011

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MUSTIQUE – We saw a rare double rainbow today and managed to capture it – rainbows are notoriously difficult to photograph so I count myself as lucky. Following the rainbow is the obligatory shot of the sky. Both taken with my Hasselblad H4D-60

Grenadines rainbow

Grenadines rainbow

Grenadines sky

Grenadines sky

On this day last year: Home theatre, Coccoloba. “Coccoloba” is the name of the house we stayed in last year. Here’s a link to it on the Mustique Company site – the photographs of the house are mine.

Home theatre


Sunday January 23, 2011

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ON BOARD THE SHROUD DANCER – So I’ve decided to focus on skies this trip. In color. Using a circular polarizer which in the general direction of 90˚ from the sun darkens the sky dramatically. In other words “the hell with not hackneyed”. Maybe even a bit in the direction of kitsch.

Here we are sailing to Bequia on board a friend’s boat, the Shroud Dancer. Take with my Hasselblad H4D and a 28mm lens. This is two frames stitched.

Shroud dancer

Shroud dancer

On this day last year: Guess what – Mustique!. This is the post with my self-important note about color in the tropics.

Mustique


Saturday January 22, 2011

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AIRBORNE BETWEEN BARBADOS AND MUSTIQUE – The places that you get to in a small plane seem to be the best. I guess that’s because there are enough people who say “I’d never fly in one of those things” to keep the crowds small. Or maybe its the landings – places where small planes go tend to have funky airports. Here we are on the last leg of the full day trip from snow-bound Manhattan to Mustique, a paradise island in the Grenadines. Here’s a link to one of the three places where the public can buy a meal on the island: Basil’s Bar. Basil Charles OBE, the owner, is a friend and has the good taste to have purchased one of my prints. No kidding on the OBE – its in recognition of his important contribution to education in St. Vincent.

Mustique appears to have become our island paradise of choice. This is not a result of a conscious decision but we were there in June 2010 at a wedding and in January of last year when I said “I almost always do tropical setting in black and white” to avoid hackneyed images. Yeh, right. We’ll see about that. This statement has made me rethink what I’m going to post over the next few days. 100% color. “Not hackneyed” is over rated, anyway.

Don’t look for a Jimmy Buffet vibe when you get here. It’s paradise, and you can buy a cheeseburger but that’s about the only connection.

SVG

SVG

On this day last year: Jet Blue terminal at JFK. On the way to Mustique.

JFK


Monday October 25, 2010

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NEW YORK, NEW YORK and CHICAGO, ILLINOIS – Well I’m two for two on out the window shots for the day. I started the morning in New York with a lovely sunrise. Yes, I’ve said that I don’t do sunrises and sunsets but this seemed sufficiently spectacular to warrant and exception. Out our dining room window with my Leica M9 and 28mm Sumicron Asph. lens.

Manhattan sunrise

Midmorning I left for Chicago to attend an two day mutual fund directors’ conference. By the time I got to my hotel and registered for the conference the day’s rather poor light was failing. I took a walk along the Chicago River but didn’t take anything that I liked. When I got back to my hotel I got this out the window. Leica M9 and 90mm Elmarit lens.

Chicago River Tour Boat

On this date one year ago I was in Portland Oregon at a farmers market: October 25, 2009

Farmers Market Portland Oregon


Wednesday October 20, 2010

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WASHINGTON DC – I flew down to Washington for dinner at Nora. Nora’s menu. Nora Pouillon hosted a dinner for some of the participants in a food policy conference sponsored by the James Beard Foundation the following day. Not much time for photography but a fabulous meal. The menu included little gem lettuces with figs and cherry glen goat cheese; deep fried soft shell crabs with soy ginger emulsion (the best soft shell crabs ever); Amish veal roast with chanterelle sauce; champagne risotto and honeycrisp apple pie.

I spent the night in a hotel near the Convention Center – a part of town that was formerly a tenderloin area but is rapidly being gentrified. Not a good day for photography but I caught this building in passing near the Convention Center with my Leica M9 and a 50mm Summicron lens. Two frames stitched.

Washington DC

On this date one year ago: October 20, 2009


Sunday September 19, 2010

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LONDON, ENGLAND – I had a chance to take a walk in Hyde Park before leaving for the airport for the flight home. This specimen tree was photographed at about 8:30 local time, an hour and a half past sunrise. The image is stitched from 15 separate frames, all shot with my Leica M9 and the same 30-year-old lens referred to in yesterday’s post. I’ve included a 1:1 crop to give an idea of the detail that can be captured with this technique. Stitching was done in Photoshop.

Hyde Park

Hyde Park Crop


Saturday September 18, 2010

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LONDON, ENGLAND – We spent the day dodging the Pope who is here on a historical state visit (but if I want to see the Pope I’ll go to Rome and security measures here snarled up traffic). We spent the day on foot, starting at the sensational Eadweard Muybridge show at the Tate Britain; catching a street food lunch in Chelsea near the Saatchi Gallery; a few well-spent hours in the Saatchi Gallery; and finally tea at the V&A. I had difficulty selecting so I’ve posted three images – I may winnow a bit further with a future edit. All images are with a Leica M9 and 30-year old 35mm Summicron lens.

Victoria and Albert Museum

Saatchi Gallery, London

Saatchi Gallery, London


Thursday September 16, 2010

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LONDON, ENGLAND – Today marks the end of my eleventh month of daily photos. We arrived in London this morning. I had time for a walk before embarking on a day of meetings. Here’s a reflection of Wilton Crescent off of the bonnet of a vintage Bentley (British racing green, from the mid ’50s, one off custom body so its hard to place the actual model). It was casually parked on the street. This is an above average ride, even by Belgravia standards.

Vintage Bentley

Leica M9 with 28mm Summicron lens.


Sunday August 29, 2010

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NAIROBI, KENYA – Here we are – out last day in Kenya. We went on a “food safari” in local markets with Hubert des Marais (an American from the Carolinas), a prominent chef who has become Fairmont’s executive chef in Kenya (or maybe East Africa). Our first stop was a large covered farmers’ market where local residents bring vegetables grown on plots in Nairobi.

Food Market

Cell phones are the primary means of communications; many residents lack electric power so business that offer the charge cell phones, like this one in the market, are common.

A cell phone charging service in the market

There’s a food court in the food market where it possible to buy lunch. The word “hotel” on the sign means “restaurant” in this context.

The largest foreign food influence is Indian. The Indians were brought in by the English to build the railroad from Mombasa to Lake Victoria. Indians also came to the region as traders, merchants and professionals. Here we see an Indian pastry shop.

An indian pastry shop

This is a former aircraft hanger, from the era when the airstrip was in the middle of Nairobi, converted to a mall for small merchants.

Shops

Hubert des Marais at lunch at Chowpaty, a terrific Indian dive. In terms of Indian regional cuisines, what we appeared to see was everything pretty much mixed together.

Hubert des Marais

Finally before packing for our flight back to New York we managed a few hours in the Nairobi National Museum. It focuses on primarily on natural history, ethnography and geology, geared roughly to a high school student. Here is a group of high school students lined up for admission:

Nairobi National Museum


Saturday August 28, 2010

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NAIROBI, KENYA – We spent the morning visiting another remarkable charity: AmericaShare, which is sponsored by our safari organizer. It right in the middle of an extensive shantytown – a favella if it were in Brazil – and it provides a variety of services (including education) to badly at risk children in the area.

AmericaShare

AmericaShare

One of the needs identified by this program is reusable sanitary napkins which facilitate school attendance by teenage girls. They are manufactured on the spot.

AmericaShare

In a study in cultural contrast we had lunch at home with Anna Trzebinski and her father, Michael Cunningham-Reed. Anna is a talented fashion designer, her father a remarkable raconteur.

Anna Trzebinski

Anna Trzebinski


Friday August 27, 2010

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NAIROBI, KENYA – Sadly, here we are loading our bush plane to return to Nairobi where we have planned a busy day

Bush plane

In Nairobi we visited the David Sheldrick Animal Orphanage, one of the two remarkable charities on our itinerary. Founded by Dame Daphnne Sheldrick the orphanage rescues orphan elephants (the most come cause of the mothers’ death is ivory poachers). The animals are cared for intensively for five years, and then reintroduced into the wild. You can walk among them at their feeding time.

Elephants

Our constant companion on the trip, Patrick, playing soccer with an elephant.


Thursday August 26, 2010

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SINGITA GRUMETI RESERVES, TANZANIA – We made a short trip by air to another spot on the Mara River (in Tanzania) known for its crossings. The wildebeest didn’t cooperate so there was little drama in the excursion. We did see a lot of hippos – managed to capture some of my best hippo images.

Hippos

We visited Singita Sasakwa Lodge for lunch and a ride on trail bikes. Singiti Sasakwa is the lodge built by Paul Tudor Jones that I mentioned in an earlier post. Here’s a link: Sasakwa Lodge.

Here’s an image of a burned our area from our bicycle ride:

Controlled burn

Finally, a sunset back at our tented camp – our last in the bush as we return to Nairobi tomorrow.

Sunset


Wednesday August 25, 2010

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SINGITA GRUMETI RESERVES, TANZANIA – More images of the moon-like landscape

Zebras

We had a dramatic moment in the late afternoon. A hyena ran down a young wildebeest. As noted elsewhere hyenas eat their prey without killing it first. Here the hyena eats the wildebeest starting with its hind quarters as we hear the wildebeest’s continuing screams. That night in our tent I imagined that every sound that I heard outside of our tent was a hyena.

wildebeest kill


Monday August 23, 2010 Part III

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MAASAI MARA, KENYA – Ride back from the crossing and late afternoon bush walk. Here’s a heard of Maasai cattle. As noted in an earlier post the Maasai are semi-nomadic cattle herders. They prefer large horn cattle in white with small black markings. The Maasai believe that all the cattle in the world belong to Maasai, leading to behavior that is considered cattle theft by others. Historically their diet consisted primarily of milk mixed with cow’s blood drawn from an artery – they patch up the wound after drawing the blood. They supplement it with sheep and goats. Cows are to valuable as a measure of wealth to slaughter for food.

Maasai cattle

This gives some idea of just how ugly the spotted hyena is:

Spotted hyenas

We took a late afternoon bush walk. This is Maria with our Maasai guide, Ping, inspecting a termite hill. Ping is an amazing story teller; he’s the fellow who spent six month’s in Orlando advising on the safari ride.

Bush walk

Maasai Mara sunset


Monday August 23, 2010 Part I

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MAASAI MARA, KENYA – Part I is our morning game drive.

Giraffe at sunrise

The Maasai who guard our camp at night (from from animals) walking 12 miles back to their village.

Maasai walking

Wildebeest:

Wildebeest

Setting up for breakfast in the bush:

Setting up for breakfast in the bush

Relaxing after breakfast

Lion up close:

Lion up close

Cape buffalo. These large, tough animals are considered dangerous if you’re on foot.

Cape buffalo

Here’s a Thomson gazelle with a group of impala. The guides refer to Thompson gazelles as “cheetah snacks”.

Impala and Thompson Gazelle


Sunday August 22, 2010 Part III

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MAASAI MARA – In the late afternoon, under dull skies, we visited a Maasai village. The Maasai are nomads – they tend cattle which are their primary index of wealth. We find the Maasai friendly and welcoming. Their culture is sufficiently binding that they tend to return to their roots after being educated, and even after travel to the US. Our Maasai guide in the Maasai Mara, Ping, had spent six months in Orlando as a consultant to the Safari feature at Disney World. They are under severe pressure to change some of their ways, For example it was a coming of age rite for a young Maasai man to kill a lion. The Maasai population is East Africa is around 400,000, the lion population is around 25,000 so the numbers no longer support this practice. The Maasai also historically practiced female circumcision, a practice that has appropriately been banned by the governments of Kenya and Tanzania. Here’s a link the the Wikipedia entry on the Maasai: The Maasai

One interesting theory on the origin of the Maasai that we heard from several guides: A Roman legion was sent to explore the sources of the Nile and vanished. The theory is that legion trained a local tribe as legionnaires and that the Maasai descended from them. The Maasai wear red cloaks (colour reserved for soldiers in the Roman army) draped like togas and use spears which resemble the Roman Pilum and short swords which resemble the Roman Gladius.

Maasai

Nancy and Maasai:

Nancy and Maasai

Maasai chickens:

Massai chickens

Maasai child at play:

Maasai child at play

We were taken into a Maasai house – they are constructed of acacia branches driven into the ground and covered with cow dung. There is one very small window – 6 cm or so in diameter.

Inside a Maasai home

Maasai children in the door of a Maasai house.

Maasai boys


Sunday August 22, 2010 Part II

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MAASAI MARA, KENYA – On our two-hour drive back from our balloon landing site we again encountered plentiful game. Here’s a cheetah, the worlds fasted land animal. This specimen in injured – see the red spot on its thigh – probably a spotted hyena bite. Here’s info on the cheetah: Cheetah.

Cheetah

Cheetah

Here’s a giraffe confronting a spotted hyena. The hyena is the nastiest predator in the bush. It jumps on its prey, clings to it with it claws and simply starts eating it, crunching flesh and bone with its powerful jaws. It’s no match for a healthy adult giraffe though, so the hyena in this picture is making a respectful circle around the giraffe. Here’s a link to the Wikipedia entry on hyenas: Hyenas.

Giraffe confronts a spotted hyena

Crocodile. Rivers and streams are infested with them. Some look like they are about the size of nuclear submarines.

Crocodile

Vultures on a termite mound:

Vultures on a termite mound

Male ostrich looking for a date. The males have black bodies; the females are gray. The red neck and legs are a courtship display.

Ostrich


Sunday August 22, 2010 Part I

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MAASAI MARA, KENYA – Another huge game day, so I’m dividing the day into multiple parts. We started at 4:00 am, driving to a hot air balloon launch site and making an hour-long balloon trip across the bush. Zebras from on high.

Zebras from the air

Ditto impalas:

Impalas

Here we are, eye-to-eye with the giraffes:

Giraffes at eye level

Bush:

Bush

Dry watering hole:

Dry watering hole

Hot air balloon landing:

Hot air balloon landing


Saturday August 21, 2010 Part II

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MAASAI MARA – More game. The Mara Plains Camp generously lent me a Canon 50D (a so-so camera) and a Canon 500 mm telephoto (a helluva lens). The camera has a relatively small sensor and a 1.6x focal multiplier (producing the equivalent of 800mm with the telephoto) but was entirely adequate. Our vehicles were provided with platforms and bean bags in lieu of tripods – this worked very well. The 800mm focal length demands seriously good technique, but when mastered yielded terrific results.

Leopard mother and cub

More leopard.

Leopards

Leopards

So here are three wildebeest. It’s an odd-looking animal – it looks like it was assembled from the spare parts bin. It looks a bit like a bison, but smaller. Since the Serengeti plain looks a lot like the North American Great Plains (except for the acacias) the large herds of wildebeest give a sense of what the North American Plains must have been like before they were settled.

Wildebeest and acacia

Our only jackal of the trip. Here’s a link to info about the jackal: Jackal

Jackal


Saturday August 21, 2010 Part I

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MAASAI MARA, KENYA – Here’s where this gets intense. In the Maasai Mara we find ourselves in the middle of the Wildebeest migration. Here’s some info on the Wildebeest (also known as the Gnu): jWildebeest entry. Quoting from the Wikipedia entry:

“Wildebeest are known for their annual migration to new pastures. Many documentaries feature wildebeest crossing rivers, or being eaten by crocodiles or drowning in the attempt. Although it is assumed that this migration is a frenzy and that the wildebeest cross blindly, recent research has shown that a herd of gnu possesses what is known as a “swarm intelligence”, whereby the animals systematically explore and overcome the obstacle as one.”

Official estimates place the wildebeest population on the greater Serengeti at 2 million; knowledgeable NGOs suggest that its more like 1.2 million. The migration brings with it teaming game of all species. I’m breaking today’s entry into two parts because of the wealth of images.

Dirt airstrip at Chyulu Hills as we prepare to depart for the Maasai Mara.

Airstrip at Chyulu Hills

Our greeting when we arrive at Maasai Mara. Poaching is a serious problem throughout Kenya and Tanzania – these animals are killed for their ivory.

An elephant gives us the full Monte

On our drive from the airstrip to the Mara Plains Camp (a fairly simple tented camp where we will spend three days) we pass these hippos. Hippos are nocturnal herbavors, grazing on the plains at night. In the daytime the stay in the water as a strategy to regulate their body heat and as protection from the sun. A large group of hippos have found this watering hole. The crud on the surface is hippo excrement – they aren’t too selective about where they hang out. They are noted for their bad tempers and can move surprisingly quickly.

Hippos

A lion killing a wildebeest.

Another take on the lion and the wildebeest.

Lion and Wildebeest

A lion cub.

Lion Cub


Friday August 20, 2010

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CHYULU HILLS, KENYA – Most of the images in the trip are taken with a Nikon D700 and various combinations of long lenses. There is a 15 kilogram baggage weight limit on chartered bush plains, so my photo gear severely limited luxury items like clothing and toiletries. Our typical day started with coffee in camp before sunrise (6:30) followed by a game drive in a Land Rover to catch the activity around sunrise, then breakfast in the bush. Game was not particularly plentiful in this region as it has suffered three years of drought. Impalas from our morning game drive:

Impalas

I also traveled with my Leica M9, which is not useful for game, but in the places where it can be used produces images that actually do stand out as having an intangible clarity and a three-dimensional quality.

Abandoned Maasai village

Acacias from our morning game drive. The Chyulu Hills are part of the vast Serengeti ecosystem, which looks heart-breakingly like Out of Africa.

Acacias

This from an afternoon bush walk.

Maria and Nancy do a bush walk

Here we are at sunset at the end of a bush walk. The man in red is a Maasai tracker; the man in green is armed in case of an unfortunate encounter with wildlife. In Ol Donyo Wuas’ experience this hasn’t been an issue but their view is better safe than sorry.

Sunset in the bush


Thursday August 19, 2010

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OL DONYO WUAS CAMP, CHYULU HILLS, KENYA – We spent the morning connecting with our charter aircraft and flying to the Chyulu Hills, where we stayed at Ol Donyo Wuas, the only camp that we are staying at with permanent structures (as opposed to tents). We did a game drive from the dirt airstrip to the camp, and cycled later in the afternoon. Game was fairly scarce – this area has suffered three years of drought.

Kilimanjaro from the air – to the south of us on the other side of the Tanzanian boarder.

Kilimanjaro from the air

Ol Donyo Wuas has built a watering hole fed by the camp’s “gray” water. It’s very popular. Here’s a giraffe getting a drink – the giraffe is vulnerable to predators when it drinks because it can’t give defensive in this position.

Giraffe at watering hole

Ol Donyo Wuas met us un the bush with elaborate tea and cocktails after our ten mile ride on trail bikes.

Tea time

Sunset. This happens quickly and doesn’t last vey long in the tropics. We’re almost on the equator so there is very little variation in sunrise (6:30 AM) and sunset (6;30 PM) throughout the year.

Sunset Chyulu Hills


Wednesday August 18, 2010

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NAIROBI, KENYA – We spent the day touring around Nairobi.  Starting now and for the rest of the trip I’ll be showing more than one picture a day – typically four or five.  I’m capturing  500 – 600 images per day – boiling this down to a single image per day takes more editing time than I have available.  Here’s a link to a New York Times article on what to do if you have 36 hours in Nairobi: 36 hours in Nairobi Here we go:

John at Breakfast at the Norflok Hotel (Norfolk Hotel):

John Novogrod

Maria makes a tall friend at Giraffe Manor, a Scottish hunting lodge set in what is now the outskirts of Nairobi (Giraffe Manor)

Giraffe Manor

Lunch at the Talisman Restaurant – this is a large bird in the garden of the restaurant – we had not gotten into the habit of asking about particulars of gender and species is at this point so I don’t have any notes as to what this is.

Talisman Restaurant

Maria and Nancy at One Off Gallery – a delightful art gallery owned by Carol Lees. She represents (among many other artists) Timothy Brooke, who’s paintings from the set of the film version of White Mischief adorn the walls of the Fairmont Norfolk Hotel.

One Off Gallery


Wednesday August 17, 2010

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HEATHROW AIRPORT, UK – After our overnight flight from New York we made our way-too-tight connection to our flight to Nairobi, an all-day affair which puts us in Nairobi at 9:00 PM local time, way after dark. Total travel time was 20 hours or so with 7 hours of time change from New York. Just after boarding we caught up with our friends John and Nancy Novogrod, who we’ll be traveling with for the next two weeks. John (like me) is a lawyer in New York; Nancy is the Editor in Chief of Travel & Leisure Magazine – the trip to Africa was her idea. Anyway, here are John and Nancy, just after boarding.

John and Nancy Novogrod

Shot with a Panasonic GF1 and 20mm f1.7 pancake lens.